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What to do about a REALLY sludgy engine?

What to do about a REALLY sludgy engine? Topic: Rest engine
July 17, 2019 / By Chesed
Question: Here's the deal. My little brother hasn't been keeping up with his oil changes for a long time now, and he's built up a lot of oil sludge in the engine. He finally got the oil changed and had an oil treatment/flush done in addition to the oil change (at my insistence, along with a good whack to the back of his head, lol). The flush helped a bit, but there is still a lot of sludge left, bad enough that they had to slow-fill the oil pan when doing the refill because it kept spilling over when they tried to use the normal oil filling process (i.e. those high speed fillers). My question is, what's the best approach to get the rest of the sludge out? I'm not much of an expert, so my only thought here is for him to add some oil treatment to the pan now and then get a flush job every time he gets a regular oil change until the sludge problem is completely resolved. That's going to take a while, though, and probably is going to add up (cheaper than a ruined engine, though). Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, everyone. Thanks for all the advice, folks. I forwarded this to my brother just now and hopefully he'll follow your advice. In the meantime, I'll send this question to a vote. Thanks again for the info!
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Best Answers: What to do about a REALLY sludgy engine?

Alysdair Alysdair | 9 days ago
Depending on how bad and how long the engine has been without oil changes engine flushes can be dangerous. Over time sludge as your seeing, but also hard baked sludge turns rock hard. Engine flushes try to dissolve the sludge and break it down off the engine parts back into the oil. This is good to a point until a big hard piece of the hard stuff falls off and gets caught on the oil pump screen clogging it up giving you no oil pressure and no way to fix it without taking the oil pump out. The best cheapest thing to do is change the oil with cheap oil (meeting spec of course), very often until the engine shows signs of getting cleaner internally. From what you said I would change the oil now including filter again. Then change it again in about 500 miles, then depending, maybe at normal intervals from then on. Bare in mind once clean, change the car over to synthetic oil if you plan on keeping it. One of the advantages of synthetic is it doesn't leave sludge behind, as well as being slicker, and not breaking down in extreme heat, and not getting to thick when its cold, and allowing you to go longer between oil changes. If the oil fill is so gunked up your having trouble filling it with oil, you probably need to take the valve covers off and clean them thoroughly, replace the gaskets and put them back.
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Tianna Tianna
WHAT KIND OF CAR??? YEAR, MAKE?????? Etc.?????? Remove your CAM cover to see inside engine. Or remove your OIL FILLER cap to see down inside. Flip the cap OVER and see how much sludge has been made!!! WHatever you see here, is what the rest of the engine will look like inside! If there are CHUNKS of coke hanging around, you are in BIG trouble. I have only seen ONE engine ruined by neglect, coke, and poor oil choices, but I am sure there are MANY more!! THere are places tha can hook up equipment through your OIL FILTER housing, that can power flush the junk out of the engine. If you remove the CAM COVER< you will be able to remove much of it YOURSELF with AMSOIL FOAMING CLEANER a toothbrush and some GUM0-OUT spray! B-G makes a good cleaning system. <<<<<<<<<>>>>>>> An engine that is THAT full of sludge is in DANGER, should chunks of COKED up oil get loosened. Get exam FIRST! Some engines are just TOO FAR GONE! Happy repairs!!
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Tianna Originally Answered: Where does engine braking come from in Diesel engines?
It comes to a large extent from pumping losses. It acts as an air pump driven by the kinetic energy of the vehicle. The intake and exhaust valves still open and close as the engine idles during coasting. Air is still taken in, compressed, and exhausted. Expanding the compressed air through the exhaust port and system into atmospheric pressure re dissipates a lot of the work energy that was put into compressing the air. If you want to disable cylinders so that they don't use energy when externally driven, then you need to disable the valve lifters. Some petrol engines do this. The statement about trying to force air through a closed intake throttle (by applying suction on the engine side) should be clarified. If it were completely sealed off, The process would be close to reversible. The more the throttle is open, the higher the mass throughput (as a pump), the higher the energy input (as a pump), and thus the higher the compressive braking. The lack of a throttle body means the intake passage is open, not modulated between open and closed. There are other loads as well, such as water pump, steering pump, alternator. Hope that helps.
Tianna Originally Answered: Where does engine braking come from in Diesel engines?
Yeah well bye bye 10 points but a 20:1 compression ratio says it is compression that provides engine braking. Granted there's no exhaust brake but with a small diesel that's not necessary as the compression energy is lost in heat. Even my 2-stroke motorbike with a paltry adjusted 7.5:1 has compression engine braking which is particularly noticeable when you try to bump start it in 2nd gear. You can come round and try it some time.

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